The open air markets of Ghana that I have ventured to thus far into my travels are mainly located in Accra and Kumasi. The markets are Circle, Makola, Madina, Kanesi, and Central Market. Each of the markets are similar but still different in many interesting ways. My time in each of the markets has been an experience unlike any that I have had prior to coming to Ghana.
Circle is actually the Kwame Nkruma Circle, however when catching a tro-tro you simply look for a mate making a circle motion with his hand and saying “circ, circ, circle”. Once dropped off in circle it is important to keep your belongings close to you. Though this market is less known for pick-pockets than other markets in Accra it is the busiest market due to its size. Within circle you can literally find anything you want. If it cannot be found in circle then it probably does not exist in all of Ghana. Some of the items for sale are not necessarily acquired in the most legal fashion but that is how things go when there are so many people trying to sell what they need for money. The sellers in circle are willing to bargain and will settle for a fair price when an above average bargainer pushes them to the price.
Makola is a very interesting market in the fact that it has many different sights and smells not found in the other markets. This market is good to find foods that would not normally be thought of as market food. This would include live snails that are about a foot long, and live crabs. This market also has chickens and fish ready to be sold to anyone that wants them. Makola is also a good place to get traditional African fabric. There are many sellers that have very different fabrics of great quality. Fabric of the quality found in Makola is very good for making shirts, dresses, or anything else one could think of making. The prices are normally set on all fabric since there is an initial set cost that the seller has to pay to get the fabric from the manufacturer. Therefore, about 20-30 cedi for six yards is a good price. Some sellers will only sell in quantities of six yards because that is how much it takes to make a dress. Although you can find sellers that will sell by the yard for about 5 cedi.
Madina is located outside of Accra. In order to get to Madina you would take a tro-tro the opposite direction of Accra from the University of Ghana. This market is smaller than Circle, Makola, and Kanesi. Some students enjoy going here because it is a quiet place to do some grocery shopping and due to the smaller number of sellers one can build relationships with the people from whom they buy. On a side note building relationships with the women of the markets are very beneficial because, not only can you learn many new things about the culture and society of Ghana but you can also be “dashed” more items. Dashing is when a seller will give you more than the usual price while still only charging you the regular price. An example of this is if you ask to have 2 cedi worth of eggs and the seller gives you 3 cedi while only charging you 2 cedi. Normally, dashes only happen between sellers and buyers who know each other.
Kanesi is located passed Circle and is another large market. This market is unfortunately known for its pick-pockets. Therefore, when traveling to this market you should always keep your bags in front of you and your money close. Sellers will look out for you so in the event that you notice someone trying to rob you, make as much noise as you can and yell “thief”. Vigilante justice is found within the markets when dealing with thievery. A moral code of no stealing is almost universally held to within Ghana; therefore, when thievery does happen the women of the markets have been known to beat the perpetrator to death. While there are safety concerns while in Kanesi many Ghanains will help you if you find yourself in trouble.
The markets of Accra and Kumasi are very different but hold many important qualities that will help you understand the culture and society of Ghana. Thus, any individual who travels to Ghana and is looking to understand an integral part of the society should traverse the markets.
